MOT Failed :-(

[888dee]

not that bad really, lot's of fiddly things which will take time...

-Windscreen, chip and star mark, Already been on to autoglass, insurance will take care of that
-Horn not working, was on the way there and is now
-OSF inner wing rust, a bit harsh as it's on the end of the panel but no biggee, sort that myself
-both headlamps need adjusted
-NSR bumper end insecure and dangerous
-OSF bumper end insecure and dangerous
-NS and OS track rod ends have play, easy to fix and £7 a side
-OSF mechanical brake component has restricted movement, what the??? surely it either works or it doesn't?
-NSF wheel bearing excessive play, confused by this as it was replaced about 7-800 miles ago, I did think at the time there was a bit of play but was assured by a Peugeot tech this was normal... not sure how I can sort this as there is a steel sleeve between the taper bearings to prevent them being crushed

wheel bearing is the only thing causing me concern really

[Wee-z]

could have been worse
as you say a fair amount of Diy
should sort it out

weez
Tony

[The Grand Wanderer]

Originally Posted by 888dee

not that bad really, lot's of fiddly things which will take time...

-Windscreen, chip and star mark, Already been on to autoglass, insurance will take care of that
-Horn not working, was on the way there and is now
-OSF inner wing rust, a bit harsh as it's on the end of the panel but no biggee, sort that myself
-both headlamps need adjusted
-NSR bumper end insecure and dangerous
-OSF bumper end insecure and dangerous
-NS and OS track rod ends have play, easy to fix and £7 a side
-OSF mechanical brake component has restricted movement, what the??? surely it either works or it doesn't?
-NSF wheel bearing excessive play, confused by this as it was replaced about 7-800 miles ago, I did think at the time there was a bit of play but was assured by a Peugeot tech this was normal... not sure how I can sort this as there is a steel sleeve between the taper bearings to prevent them being crushed

wheel bearing is the only thing causing me concern really

No problem just give the nut holding the bearing in place 1/8 of a turn just to take the slack out then mot and if you want undo same nut after.

[888dee]

GW, from what I remember when I fitted it I horsed it up with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a scaffold pole on the bar, it wasn't gonna tighten any more

[Boxerman]

Originally Posted by 888dee

GW, from what I remember when I fitted it I horsed it up with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a scaffold pole on the bar, it wasn't gonna tighten any more

Then perhaps you overtightened it which has caused premature wear? If they are a similar setup to the Boxer then I believe there should be a little free play, can't say offhand how much though

I had the same problem with the horn, sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. Turned out to be the relay.

Rgds
Frank

[biggirafe]

Originally Posted by 888dee

GW, from what I remember when I fitted it I horsed it up with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a scaffold pole on the bar, it wasn't gonna tighten any more

Eh, er should bearings only be done up 'finger tight'

[maingate]

All taper bearings should be tightened fully then backed off slightly (very slightly). The amount backed off will vary, depending on the size of the bearing.

Speaking to a mechanic might be useful to determine how much is required.

[coolasluck]

Torque wrench springs to mind.

[Boxerman]

IF the setup is the same as the Boxer, the free play is determined by the thickness of the spacer between the inner and outer races. The free play on the Boxer is 0.002 to 0.10mm measured with a dial gauge on the bearing outer race, by the time the wheel is on, this freeplay will be magnified quite a bit.

As maingate says, it would be worthwhile having a mechanic give his opinion. Changing wheel bearings on a FWD vehicle is not as easy as on a RWD one.

Rgds
Frank

[Boxerman]

Originally Posted by coolasluck

Torque wrench springs to mind.

Quoting Boxer figures again 340 lb/ft - quite tight

Frank