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Thread: voltage regulator

  1. #1

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    voltage regulator



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    Propex have told me i need to stabilise he voltage to my heater. there's so many on ebay i can't work out which is best. i need it to bring 12-15v down to a steady 12v -any recommendations ?
    too blessed to be stressed

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by n brown View Post
    Propex have told me i need to stabilise he voltage to my heater. there's so many on ebay i can't work out which is best. i need it to bring 12-15v down to a steady 12v -any recommendations ?
    Not sure what ones you have looked at, but one thing you must check ... Max current. The most common 12V regulator in use is typically for LED Lighting and has a very limited current (typically just 1A), and insufficient for a heater supply.
    Sorry can't point you to a recommendation, but hopefully this will help eliminate unsuitable ones?
    Fed up with the Whingers and Moaners. PMs Turned Off. Sayonara
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  3. #3

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    Last edited by Fletch6; 26-08-2018 at 22:47.

  4. #4

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    Surely this is propex's problem? You're using the heater as intended aren't you?
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  5. #5

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    Last edited by Fletch6; 26-08-2018 at 23:35.
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  6. #6

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    When the van is static the voltage will be about 12.7 ish so cannot see in any a satabiliser is required,unless your trying to run it when on the hoof.
    Only dirty people wash
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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fletch6 View Post
    Just looked on the propex website, the 2000 blown air heater uses 1.4a

    So this bad lad should do it:

    DROKA(R) DC-DC Car Power Adapter Buck Converter, 30-60V to 12V Voltage Regulator | eBay
    cheers, ordered !
    too blessed to be stressed

  8. #8

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    Last edited by Fletch6; 26-08-2018 at 23:34.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fletch6 View Post
    Oh, no, just re-read the description, seems like the input voltage is too high. I feel such a tw*t sorry.

    You would need one with a lower input like this.

    3A DC-DC STEP DOWN BUCK CONVERTER 8-22V TO 1-15V ( eg. 12V 9V 6V 5V 3.3V 1.5V ) | eBay

    I've read through it thoroughly this time
    ha ha , did you blush ? i sent a message saying i'd like to cancel so should be okay ! ta for the new link
    too blessed to be stressed

  10. #10

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    Hello Mr Brown,

    Not a lot of info to work with but I think that somewhere you might have been misled.

    I don’t have a Propex so looked on line for electrical power requirements found this :

    https://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/w...stallation.pdf which says

    Battery Supply
    Nominal voltage: 12V d.c.
    Operating range: 10.0V d.c. min. to 15V d.c. max.
    Maximum current d.c. gas operation: 1.7 Amps (0.01 Amps on standby)
    Maximum current d.c. electric operation: 2.2 Amps (0.01 Amps on standby)

    So the heater should run ok at any voltage between 10 and 15 Volts which covers the likely range of volts supplied to the heater including when on charge for basic 12V lead acid batteries and calcium types. Perhaps you have something special that runs at higher volts?

    If not then, as Fletch6 has added, the DROKA(R) DC-DC Car Power Adapter Buck Converter, 30-60V to 12V Voltage Regulator, suggested needs 30-60 volts input. Are you running a 24V system in your sprinter? Even on 24V I doubt that item would be suitable as system voltage might be in the range 20 to 30 volts to the heater or regulator, not enough for the latter.

    All the "buck" only regulators I have seen require 2 or 3 volts more input than they can output.

    If your problem is low voltage below 10V there are “Buck Boost” regulators which raise or lower the input voltage to what you require. Like this:
    Constant current/voltage 5-32v 5A buck regulator UK Stock | eBay
    I would go for 5A output to allow for power surge at start up and also to avoid overheating the regulator as some have marginal heat sinks.

    However, if the battery voltage is already in the range between 12.2 – 12.35V it is only about 50% charged and you may not want to take more out of it. That range of 12.2 – 12.35V depends on battery type and temperature etc.

    If the voltage is ok at the battery but low at the heater terminals check for continuity with good connections in the supply and earth return or maybe whether wired with too thin cable.

    Hope that helps

    @Fletch6 wrote this before your correction, no intention to tread on your toes
    Last edited by Dowel; 12-03-2018 at 17:34.
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