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Thread: Battery monitor

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wooie1958 View Post
    Quite a few on here have Nasa BM 1 & 2 monitors Battery Monitors - Nasa Marine Instruments

    They seem to be liked a lot
    you did,pj ok

  2. #22
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    Many Other Versions 50/100 amp.

    Quote Originally Posted by ******** View Post
    It depends what you want to monitor. Monitoring the voltage is easy, but pretty useless on its own.

    The voltage of a battery is only an indication of its remaining charge if no current has flowed in or out of the battery for the last hour or two. Which makes it an impractical measure, even though many people on WC seem to think it tells them something.

    In theory you can calculate the state of charge by measuring both the voltage and the current, but the reality is that this is never accurate either, even with fancy calculations involving Peukert's formula.

    The only worthwhile way is to monitor the current going in and out and try to keep track. This is fairly reliable as long as the battery is charged right up to the top fairly often, or run right down flat (not recommended!) However accurate they are, small errors can build up, so getting up to 100% from time to time helps keep them accurate.

    As far as I can see, the Victror 712 is one of these, with the addition of a bluetooth bit to provide connectivity to an app.

    The one I use (which works brilliantly, and has done for many years) looks exactly like DC Battery Monitor Positive Negative Current +/- 30A Voltage 120V Car Volt Meter 754610748905 | eBay which costs less than 15. But if you would rather pay more than ten times as much to be able to open an app instead of looking at a display, that's fine by me!

    [Later] Mine must be a bit different because it measures charge currents way over 30A. Perhaps mine is a 50 or 60 amp one. I don't remember, to be honest. It was installed many years ago.

    Good explanation Many different sizes of that meter on ebay, (once you find them), the 30amp version look like you would need to run your main input and outputs through the monitor, ok if your are fitting meter by battery or somewhere near those main cables, perhaps you had a shunt with your gauge. Another option I found there, following your link was:-

    Battery Monitor Meter Wireless DC 120V 100A VOLT AMP AH SOC Remaining Capacity%% | eBay

    Wireless and 25

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by chas142 View Post
    Good explanation Many different sizes of that meter on ebay, (once you find them), the 30amp version look like you would need to run your main input and outputs through the monitor, ok if your are fitting meter by battery or somewhere near those main cables, perhaps you had a shunt with your gauge. Another option I found there, following your link was:-

    Battery Monitor Meter Wireless DC 120V 100A VOLT AMP AH SOC Remaining Capacity%% | eBay

    Wireless and 25
    If you got to post #19 in this thread you will see a photo of that one in use that I posted (Battery monitor)
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildebus View Post
    If you got to post #19 in this thread you will see a photo of that one in use that I posted (Battery monitor)
    No I didn't get that far. I must study 19> lots of information in there. Should have read it first.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by ******** View Post
    I suspect that there is a hall sensor that the cable goes through, a box of cleverness on a short wire that can't be extended, and also a longer (extendable) wire to the dsplay. So the box of cleverness will need to be near the sensor.

    The one I have that uses a shunt is fine with a few metres of flex between the display and the shunt, though it was far from happy when I tried it with multicore telephone cable. It just happened to be what was to hand, but it was no good.
    That is right - and the longer cable on my unit is the USB Cable.

    The one you just ordered looks like the cable from the sensor goes into the meter (3 wires from hall sensor, 3 pin port into meter) so you might be stuck with display positioning?

    On the units with the shunts that don't come with specialist wiring, I typically use 3-core 1mm flex as the neatest option. The meters usually need Vin, GND and the two sense wires - so I bring in the 2 senses, plus power from battery bank and then just pick up a local ground.
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ******** View Post
    Yes, any meter can only monitor one point where all the current passes through. The one you linked to can only monitor current in the wire passing through its hole. My experience of these hall effect sensors is that they are not reliably accurate, but I have ordered one of these: Battery Monitor 6in1 300V 100A State of Charge SOC AH VOLT AMP Charge Discharge 732140263808 | eBay, so when the Slow Boat arrives, I'll be able to compare.

    The shunt or sensor doesn't have to be anywhere near the meter's display. Mine is installed in the earth cable to the battery bank, with a very long wire to the meter in the dash.
    I know what you mean about hall effect ammeters, I was a Auto Electrician 25 years ago, then it seemed the more you paid and the age of the meter made a big difference. Not been involved much for some time and always used my old meters mostly. Updated a few bits recently, everything is much cheaper now, even if on a paddle steamer from the other side of the world.

    Yes, shunt or sensor can be well away from the gauge, with a long wire. I looked at the 30 amp unit like your link, well one of them on ebay, (it was saved earlier as it was the cheapest, ha ha), and that didn't show a shunt, showed it in line with a charger / alternator, without a shunt or sensor, you would obviously have problems if you had to cut into the wires and run them half way around the MH.

    Are you finding much of a volts drop across the shunt ? One reason why I never fitted Split charge diode systems, if I found them on the trucks that I maintained they would automatically be removed and replaced with a heavy duty relay system.

    Let me know how you get on with the Chinese monitor, there is a post above with a picture of the monitor I linked, (just seen you linked to a different type again, so many options), and their link for I suspect the same unit for about 32, that shows more details than the link I posted. I've got to go back to it at some point but I don't know if it's a bit of over information. I've got to read it all to understand it and decide if I want that much info. Brain slowing down as I get older.
    Last edited by chas142; 23-12-2018 at 17:24.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ******** View Post
    I think they are nearly all the same: the meters work on a 75mV difference across the shunt.
    Mine is a 50A meter (I think: I've had it longer than the eBay purchase history goes back) so the voltage drop should be 1.5millivolts per amp. Not enough to worry about, I reckon.
    Yes, I agree to that, on some of the trucks that I worked on you could lose 2 or 3 volts in the system, if they had batteries mounted on the trailer for tail lifts etc. No chance of them charging up!!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildebus View Post
    If you got to post #19 in this thread you will see a photo of that one in use that I posted (Battery monitor)

    Re the ebay monitor with the hall sensor it has connections for Vext Power, any idea ? I'm assuming from the diagram that it could show voltage of say the starter battery, could be handy, I wonder if that set up with the relays would also give you the option of cutting off the radio power, on the starter battery side when voltage low. Mind you can buy separate low voltage cut off for that for a few pounds, or wire the radio into the leisure battery side. I keep taking out the fuse when parked up but sometimes forget. The solar controller charges both starter and liesure batteries and can be changed for priority, % wise.

    Vext Power.jpg

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by ******** View Post
    Generally, the external power connection is so that the meters can monitor a wider range voltage than they can run on. They cant monitor two separate voltages.
    Generally, but I did find this, that looked interesting...

    Wireless 2 Dual Battery Monitor Main Aux 400V300A SOC Charge Discharge Motorhome 732140331415 | eBay

  10. #30

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    I suspect it's chinglish for needs no external/additional shunt...

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