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Thread: Battery monitor

  1. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by grahammay2 View Post
    Hello all
    I've just purchased and thought it would be simple to wire. However I need some help with the wiring. It seems that the monitor can be wired to show either the charging state or the usage but not both,is that so?
    Looking forward to hearing from you soon. Many thanks Graham
    I think you have misunderstood.

    The meter measures the current flowing through the shunt (or in the case of the low power one, through the meter) and it measures the voltage. By keeping track of how much current has gone in and out, it calculates the remaining capacity of the battery. There is only one way to wire it. The instructions tell you.

    By default, the display shows the voltage on the top line. You can choose to have it show the wattage being used (or charged) instead.

    The bottom line shows the current flowing or the Ah remaining in the battery, or the battery % remaining.

    Or you can set it to count up time since you started the timer. I'm not sure what that is good for.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by grahammay2 View Post
    Hello all
    I've just purchased and thought it would be simple to wire. However I need some help with the wiring. It seems that the monitor can be wired to show either the charging state or the usage but not both,is that so?
    Looking forward to hearing from you soon. Many thanks Graham
    Hi Graham, so you have the 30amp unit, if you look at the pictures on the link provided by st3v3 in post 60, you will see that you have input and output connections, + & - on each. It shows you in both pictures that the battery goes to the input side of the of the monitor, the wires that go to the vehicle wiring go to the output side.

    Have you wired it in yet ?

    You should decide where you want the meter to fit, then and more important you should decide how you are going to run the cable and what cable you are going to use, or are you going to fit it near the battery, is you battery under the passenger seat?

    As I said earlier you don't want to be running cables around the MH, it causes volts drop in the cable and you end up have to use thicker wire because of this. So I don't know how good your DIY skill are. I would say that fitting it near the battery on my vehicle would be the best and easiest option on my MH, but difficult to see it when down by the seat. So that is the easiest way to connect it in unless you want to cut into the main wiring by the electrical box, (dependant on your vehicle which I don't know), I could do that as I was an Auto Electrician, so pulling the box apart wouldn't be beyond me. But the better option would have been as I thought I broached earlier was to buy the slightly more expensive meter that had a separate shunt.

    But you have it now, if you don't feel confident in fitting it you should get a professional to fit it for you, you don't want to set you MH on fire. I've seen it all before. If you do it yourself disconnect the - side of the battery first and that should be the last connection you put back. If I were you I would connect it using your existing wiring by cutting into it + & + and connecting that then - & - and connecting that. With your meter you would need to use yellow eyelets I suspect of the correct size for the screws, or you could make up 4 short cables, min 30amp cable, with eyelets attached at one end then you could use a H/D screw down connection block, that way you can remove the meter and put the wiring back to as was if you like or to swap the meter around the other way if you needed to. I have a watt meter that is reversed like that for different tests but I don't think you would need to do that with your monitor. As I said earlier I don't know your meter so you need to follow the information given in the instructions and from hairydog in post 61, who has a similar meter. It's basically plug in and play to understand it.

    Make sure everything in insulated so it can't short out.
    Last edited by chas142; 11-01-2019 at 00:49.

  3. #63

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    Thanks for your replies hairydog & Chas. I would fit near lbatts which are under hab bench. The battery monitor just doesn't look like it is substantial enough to carry the full load of current through it. I've an auto sleeper 2013 with Sargent kit. Further comments very welcomed. Graham

  4. #64

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    The 30A meter has to be wired in line with the main cable, but the 50A, 60A and 120A ones do not. They use a shunt (a strip of metal of precise resistance) in line with the cable, and a flex to where you fit the meter. I would buy a 60A one if I were you. I'm pretty sure that's what mine is.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hairydog View Post
    The 30A meter has to be wired in line with the main cable, but the 50A, 60A and 120A ones do not. They use a shunt (a strip of metal of precise resistance) in line with the cable, and a flex to where you fit the meter. I would buy a 60A one if I were you. I'm pretty sure that's what mine is.
    Like wot he says
    Even if you think the lower amperage versions will be sufficient in terms of power terms, I would always recommend a Monitor that has a seperate shunt (or sensor) as it almost invariably allows much more flexibility in cabling and display positioning.
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  6. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by grahammay2 View Post
    The battery monitor just doesn't look like it is substantial enough to carry the full load of current through it. I've an auto sleeper 2013 with Sargent kit. Further comments very welcomed. Graham
    It is a 30A meter, so ought to be capable of carrying at least 30A.

    Unless you have an inverter bigger than about 600 watts, you probably won't have a current bigger than 30A going in or out of the habitation batteries at any time. What Sergent kit do you have?

    However, I expect that the terminals on the 30A meter will be rather fiddly and small.

  7. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by hairydog View Post
    The 30A meter has to be wired in line with the main cable, but the 50A, 60A and 120A ones do not. They use a shunt (a strip of metal of precise resistance) in line with the cable, and a flex to where you fit the meter. I would buy a 60A one if I were you. I'm pretty sure that's what mine is.
    I have this one and it’s 50a, I think it then goes 100,200,400

    It works really well though, but the instructions are a bit Engrish and need a bit of nous.

    This is the one you want and you wire it up as the first picture (internal power supply)
    DC 120V 50A Voltage Current Ah Time Meter Battery Charge Discharge AGM SLA LEAD 754610748943 | eBay
    Last edited by ScoTTyBEEE; 11-01-2019 at 18:58.

  8. #68

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    Quote Originally Posted by hairydog View Post
    It is a 30A meter, so ought to be capable of carrying at least 30A.

    Unless you have an inverter bigger than about 600 watts, you probably won't have a current bigger than 30A going in or out of the habitation batteries at any time. What Sergent kit do you have?

    However, I expect that the terminals on the 30A meter will be rather fiddly and small.
    Sargent EC 480 & ec500. I do have a 2k inverter fitted directly to the lbatts which wouldn't go through the meter.
    Graham

  9. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by grahammay2 View Post
    Sargent EC 480 & ec500. I do have a 2k inverter fitted directly to the lbatts which wouldn't go through the meter.
    Graham
    If you have a battery monitor that is fitted and bypasses what would be by far the biggest load on the battery when running, it kind of defeats the point of fitting the monitor doesn't it?
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  10. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by wildebus View Post
    If you have a battery monitor that is fitted and bypasses what would be by far the biggest load on the battery when running, it kind of defeats the point of fitting the monitor doesn't it?

    Yes I suppose so, on occasions when invertors has been used.

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