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Thread: 250 watt ebike

  1. #1
    yorkshireCPLE's Avatar
    yorkshireCPLE is offline Full Member
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    250 watt ebike



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    Thinking of buying a mountain bike but a 250w ebikes type. Has anyone bought one and how do you find it's performance on steep hills? I'm not an athletic bloke at all, in fact I've had a hear attack, and I'm partly disabled. I can't walk far due to problems with feet and back. So thought one of these might be a good way of getting my fat a*se out the van while the wife's at work....

    Cheers Carl..
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  2. #2
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    We bought Caz an ebike last year but not much used yet. They changed the law last year(or maybe 2016) so the motor can only assist now and also restricted speeds. I am not going to type what as I donít know.

    I was thinking of getting one myself before the changes as I cannot peddle but missed the boat, not sure if the new laws only affected new bikes or if retrospective. Just had a look on inter web and it doesnít say watts but is 8.8ah and top speed is 15.5mph so not sure if itís something different you are looking for

    All that said the one Caz has (Pendleton Somerby)seems to put more power in as needed, it is a very steep hill we live on and she can go up at a gentle pedal. I havenít tried it myself yet as wanted to wait until it gets some scratches on it first

    I got myself a mobility scooter instead which I find great for getting round when we go anywhere.
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  3. #3

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    I'm not sure when the law changed, but AFAICT it did recently to conform to the EU standard, which is max 250W for solo bicycles with 25 kph top assisted speed. Bikes can go faster than this, but the electric assistance must stop at 25 kph. The EU standard also restricts bikes to "pedelecs" -- i.e. you need to pedal to activate the electric assistance. Prior to this, the UK standard was a maximum of 200W / 15 mph and twist or trigger throttles were permitted. Trikes and tandems have a higher permissible power rating but the max assisted speed is the same. That said, these restrictions only apply to bicycles used on the public highway and MTBs not used on the public road can be more powerful and/or faster.

    Now different companies measure the power rating differently and (allegedly) some have a peak power rating of 800W but the controller limits the average power to the legal figure. Also, there are two methods for controlling power output in pedelec mode -- cadence and torque:

    Cadence (or pedalling speed)
    This method typically uses a magnetic sensor on the frame together with a magnet on the chainring or one of the cranks. With this method you don't get immediate electric assistance as it can take up to one revolution of the pedal before the sensor detects that the magnet is moving. The amount of assistance you get depends upon how fast you pedal rather than how hard you push on the pedals.

    Torque (or pedalling effort)
    This method typically uses a torsion sensor in the bottom bracket to measure how hard you're pushing the pedals. You get immediate electric assistance as soon as you push on the pedals and that assistance is proportional to how hard you pedal rather than how fast. To me, torque sensing is more natural than cadence sensing -- but YMMV. However, torque sensing is usually more expensive than cadence sensing.

    Also, it's worth noting that the larger the battery (in terms of Amp-hours), the greater the range you'll get on one charge. Some bikes promise a lot but deliver little (sometimes less than a quarter of the claimed range).

    Hopefully, the following link doesn't contravene forum ettiquette (as it isn't about motorhoming): UK Electric Bikes l Pedelecs has a lot of information you might find valuable, together with some links to dealers etc.

    HTH, Geoff
    Last edited by GeoffL; 12-04-2018 at 13:54.
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  4. #4

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    I have one, a Haibike All Mountain RC full suspension with Yamaha e system and its awesome. I only ride it off road, but it gives me the extra power and puch to get up and over some serious obstacles, whether that be rocks or really steep climbs, which i'm now simply too old to get up and over on a std pedal bike. If you want to do any amount of hill work, you need a crank drive rather than hub drive. Crank drive gives you the flexibility to use the gears to keep the motor revs up just like in a car or van, whereas hub drive is dictated by wheel speed, and if you ask a hub drive to do steep inclines you just sap the battery. Easy use on mine will get me 30 miles in eco, serious off road in the std setting comes down to about 20 miles, but that's plenty for the normal sort of guy.
    I dont get accused of cheating now as much as the e-bikes become more common, but the easy answer is that if you go out even to cheat with an e-bike, its better than not going out at all.

    Stu
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    I agree, riding an ebike is still great exercise and it's surprising how much time you can spend with the motor switched off once you're into the swing of cycling again. They're really trendy now... no more accusations of just being old! I've got no less than 3 ebikes! I've also got back issues, occasional mild asthma and a distinct tendency towards lazyitis... ebikes are the best! thumb.gif

    The first two - Batribikes - were bought about 6 years ago specifically for carrying on the motorhome... for me and my late husband. They're the fold up, small-wheeled, shopper size and are still perfect for camping or putting in the car. Since my husband died in 2014, I've kept his bike for friends to use or for spares down the line. (It's been good to have a spare battery!) The third bike I bought 2 or 3 years ago and it's a full-sized ebike that I use at home because those little wheels just feel wrong when I'm not camping. I was more used to a big bike but could no longer trust my back not to give up on me halfway back from town, so had to stop using my gorgeous and huge Danish Viva sit-up-and-beg, non-electric one.

    AFAIK ebikes have been governed for many years... I seem to remember 15mph when we bought the first ones, although you can still pedal the bikes faster than that if you want. All my ebikes have the twist throttle because they were bought before the rules changed but the bit that gets the most use is the pedal assist, which you can use or switch off as you please. I promise you that if my back pain kicks in with the pressure of going up a big hill, I can flip up to the next level of assistance and sail up the hill like Bradley Wiggins doing the Box Hill circuit! What's not to like?
    Last edited by Minisorella; 12-04-2018 at 15:09.
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  6. #6
    yorkshireCPLE's Avatar
    yorkshireCPLE is offline Full Member
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    Thanks guys

    By the looks of it I will be dipping my hand into this Yorkshire pocket Will look forward to it I think, the rides not the spending lol...
    We are out 24/7 in the van so being able to go off with the dog will be great... I'm going to go round with the Mrs while she's doing her walking getting ready for the Race for Life. So yeah I'll get one bought... Thanks guys and ladies of course...
    Carl...

  7. #7

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    Loads of different ways of doing this. I have a Mountain Bike with a 350W motor ( Yep I know but who is going to check ) it does 25kmh happily. It is also reasonably LIGHT as it was not a cheap bike to start with. You can convert most bikes that have a standard 68mm bottom bracket. I also have a Kansi 20" fold up bike which is great as it fits in the MH Garage. It is also very light at < 20Kg including the battery. If you are going to keep one on the back of a MH make sure you can lift it on and off. Some of these E-Bikes are very heavy. If you go down the route of buying one ready to go have a go on it first. Then switch the power off and see if you can still ride it. Nothing worse than being a couple of miles from home and no power left in the battery. Also consider how you are going to charge the battery. 6 hours at 2 amps 240v Charger. Have fun.

    Tongsheng TSDZ2 Mid Drive Motor Conversion ebike Kit,Torque Sensor 36V 350W XH18 Display High Speed Electric Bike Motor: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors

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    I've had a hub drive (cadence) bike for several years, gf has recently got a crank drive (torque).
    My hub drive has standard size mountain bike wheels, for most riding this works well, but on very steep hills you still have to put in the effort as the motor can get to point of stalling, you can cheat on flat and just turn pedals and let motor do all the work. Mine (and I think most of this type) has three 'speeds' the assistance kicks in 100% and will take you up to one of these set speeds and then ease off. If you are not a keen cyclist you might be better with smaller wheels as whilst they will not be as nice at speed they should make hills easier to climb.
    Gf's crank drive is much more sophisticated (and three times the cost) you set the amount of assistance it gives and it drives throu the gears so can climb just about anything whilst still being good at speed, very nice to ride.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by QFour View Post
    Also consider how you are going to charge the battery. 6 hours at 2 amps 240v Charger.
    We've been throu this on another thread recently, whist the chargers quote that they in fact only draw around 85w, but still a consideration as to how to charge.

  10. #10

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    20" Pedal Power using Bafang Motors. SWMBO has a 250W mine has 350W both capable of 20mph

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