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Thread: Torque Wrench

  1. #11

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    A good tip for cycle pedals is to heat them with a heat gun then fit and tighten,as they cool the grip will be a good one.
    Last edited by trevskoda; 09-01-2019 at 17:03.
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  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by trevskoda View Post
    A good tip for cycle pedals is to heat them with a heat gun then fit and tighten,as they cool the grip will be a one.
    Again Trev - when things where made out of steel. The pedals are made out of Magnesium, the bearing/mounting bolt is Steel and the crank is Aluminium. A hares breath too tight and you strip a thread, a gnat's whisker too loose it all falls apart. I think my problem was that the thread on the peddle had not been cut deep enough and was unnaturally tight. I did hesitate before I put it on as it looked less than perfect. I made absolutely sure it was well lubed and in straight. Worked perfectly well on a test ride. 5K into a ride the next day with my 17 stone behind it, the thread totally disintegrated. A lesson learned! Loose some weight.

    Richard
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  3. #13

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    I am thinking of this one Draper 78639 BTW 1/4" Square Drive Torque Wrench 5-25Nm: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike.
    Keep my old faithful for the wheel nuts and use this one for the fancy alloys on the push bike. Always found Draper to be OK for occasional DIY use but maybe not for the pros.

    Or maybe this one which has some very relevant bits but I don't know Xtools
    X-Tools Essential Torque Wrench Set Black: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors

    Richard
    Last edited by Tbear; 09-01-2019 at 16:52. Reason: more info

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by oppy View Post
    Tight and a tap has always worked for me
    Did you qualify as a mechanic in Greece?

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbear View Post
    I am thinking of this one Draper 78639 BTW 1/4" Square Drive Torque Wrench 5-25Nm: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike.
    Keep my old faithful for the wheel nuts and use this one for the fancy alloys on the push bike. Always found Draper to be OK for occasional DIY use but maybe not for the pros.

    Richard
    Richard if your push bike is that fancy get yourself a Norbar torque wrench and then you will know it is correct and in calibration and safe to use.

    As a matter of interest when the surgeons are fitting screws and mechanical things how do they know how tight to go ?
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  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbear View Post
    Again Trev - when things where made out of steel. The pedals are made out of Magnesium, the bearing/mounting bolt is Steel and the crank is Aluminium. A hares breath too tight and you strip a thread, a gnat's whisker too loose it all falls apart. I think my problem was that the thread on the peddle had not been cut deep enough and was unnaturally tight. I did hesitate before I put it on as it looked less than perfect. I made absolutely sure it was well lubed and in straight. Worked perfectly well on a test ride. 5K into a ride the next day with my 17 stone behind it, the thread totally disintegrated. A lesson learned! Loose some weight.

    Richard
    Unless you are buying campagnola sets at around 3 grand then most other stuff is just pure cr-p.
    Only dirty people wash
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  7. #17

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    Seems quite low nm's for a general torque wrench. Suppose it depends what you are working on mostly. The Norbar/Halfords knock off are around +/- 1% in the tests I've seen but always say within 3% which seems to be the accepted standard. But hey for around 25 suppose it will do the trick. Bob
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  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by harrow View Post
    Richard if your push bike is that fancy get yourself a Norbar torque wrench and then you will know it is correct and in calibration and safe to use.

    As a matter of interest when the surgeons are fitting screws and mechanical things how do they know how tight to go ?
    The Norbar that I looked at did not go down low enough but there may well be others.

    Some they just bung in as you would a wood screw. sometimes they use a dedicated torque wrench, sometimes they have a head that snaps off when you reach the correct torque.

    Richard
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  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobj808 View Post
    Seems quite low nm's for a general torque wrench. Suppose it depends what you are working on mostly. The Norbar/Halfords knock off are around +/- 1% in the tests I've seen but always say within 3% which seems to be the accepted standard. But hey for around 25 suppose it will do the trick. Bob
    I need to go down to about 6 Nm. Norbar claim to be accurate to plus or minus 3% and only go down to 8Nm. I'll keep the old one for the rough stuff and use this one for the delicate alloy stuff. I am tending towards the 35 one as it has a nice new set of bits with it. Less chance of stripping the heads of the allen sockets.

    Richard
    Last edited by Tbear; 09-01-2019 at 17:50.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by trevskoda View Post
    Unless you are buying campagnola sets at around 3 grand then most other stuff is just pure cr-p.
    Not sure my pension is going to run to campagnola but you are correct about the rest being cr-p at times. A friends carbon fibre frame seems to be delaminating

    Richard

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