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Thread: Torque Wrench

  1. #1

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    Torque Wrench



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    After wrecking the peddle and crank on my pushbike I have decided to upgrade my 40 year old beam torque wrench. It is still fine for wheel nuts but not delicate or exact enough for threads in magnesium and aluminum. I do not intend to use it often so reluctant to spend silly money an a Snap On and it does not need to go up to a huge force. What do you guys think would be a sensible one?

    Richard

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  3. #3

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    Halfords. We torque everything on our motocross bikes and wouldn't go past them. They are made by Norbar and extremely accurate, so much so they are Auto Express best buy every time they do a wrench test. Dawdle to use as they have an easy read window for nm and ft/lbs as opposed to squinting at a series of numbers engraved in bar. We have the 12 - 60 nm model (also have a 2 - 12 nm for some engine work) but they do various ranges. Even kindly put a + on the handle so you know your torque length when using a torque adaptor. Worth a look but you're looking to pay around 75.
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    Tight and a tap has always worked for me
    Be the best that you can, without causing pain to others
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbear View Post
    After wrecking the peddle and crank on my pushbike I have decided to upgrade my 40 year old beam torque wrench. It is still fine for wheel nuts but not delicate or exact enough for threads in magnesium and aluminum. I do not intend to use it often so reluctant to spend silly money an a Snap On and it does not need to go up to a huge force. What do you guys think would be a sensible one?

    Richard
    I have a Norbar torque wrench and would happily buy another one, agreed I would research where to buy one and at what price but I have trusted the one I have for more than 40 years.
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  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by oppy View Post
    Tight and a tap has always worked for me
    It worked for me for years when things where made out of good old fashioned steel and a bit of victorian thinking in the engineering but now everything seems to be some sort CAD designed lightweight alloy. Former lasting for years, the latter lasting until it is put into use.

    Thankyou everyone else. I will get on the internet and have a look.

    Richard

  7. #7

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    Tight and tap is fine for large bolts. I refitted the stator on one of our bikes and the M4 short thread mounting bolts into the new alloy casing (120) were 4nm. That's why we use good quality wrenches.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobj808 View Post
    Tight and tap is fine for large bolts. I refitted the stator on one of our bikes and the M4 short thread mounting bolts into the new alloy casing (120) were 4nm. That's why we use good quality wrenches.
    That’s probably what the guy who changed the clutch on my VW trike thought before selling it me. 265ft/lb turns out to be more than a 4ft scaffold bar as I discovered when it came loose and crank slid totalling crank
    Don't Worry, Be Happy
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  9. #9

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    Heh Heh, that's why torque wrenches are good. People ALWAYS overtighten bolts/nuts in my experience. Some of the quick fixes I see at mx meetings are brutal. Manufacturers go to a lot of effort to establish best settings so why not stick to them. They work. Even a cheap wrench is better than guessing as it will put you in the correct ballpark.
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  10. #10

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    Agree about Norbar/Halfords. Search the net for prices though. I bought a new one a couple of months ago and got the Norbar 10 cheaper than Halfords (same wrench, just rebadged) even with their trade card price applied.
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